Tuesday 12 February 2013

C'est si bon! C'est Lyon!

L'Art de Vivre

When in France, do as the French do. I rented an apartment while in Lyon instead of staying in a hotel. I learned how to use the Metro and the transit system and I found the best baguette in the neighborhood.
It is really an art to enjoy living a beautiful life. Appreciate the sunshine, savour your lunch, swirl your wine, value the time you are spending with your friends...then eat a little bit more.This is how it is here in Lyon. But as a matter of fact, you can do this wherever you are.

Childhood Memories, Chocolate display by Michel Cluizel
Cake Toyz
For centuries Lyon is known as the French capital of gastronomy. 
 
There are lots of restaurants with Michelin Stars in Lyon. The world famous Chef Paul Bocuse has three. Some of the finests chefs of France come from Lyon. The winner of the Bocuse d'Or 2013, Thibaut Ruggeri is from Lyon. In my observation, good food is everywhere in Lyon and it is available at any budget. Lyon is famous for its Bouchons, which are typical and traditional restaurants serving local dishes. Furthermore, two of France's well known wine producing regions are located near Lyon: Beaujolais to the North, and the Côtes du Rhône to the South.
It was my first time to see "Pot Lyonnais" on the menu, sometimes, it is written as " pot of  wine". It is the wine from the region.

The first day in Lyon, we went to a small market called Jardin de Provence. I was carried away and bought way too much food, enough for one week. Next door is a Boulangerie and Patisserie, I was carried away too.


Baguette, Courrone, Beurre Extra Fin de Loches, St. Marcellin, St. Felicien, 
Chevres séchés,Tomme de Savoie Gris, Saucissons séchés, 
Gateau Sucèss et Gateau d'Olivia



It was very amusing for me to see that no one in this area understand Canadian French. The lady at the Boulangerie reminds me of a very stern French teacher. You better pronounce your words right or she will not sell you any bread. My friend was 'traumatized', because there was a long line up of people buying bread and the lady simply said..."je ne comprends pas"... then she started helping the next person in line. Rude. Fortunately, I can pronounce correctly the French words I know. Then, I became in charge of buying bread and pastries, that's when I got carried away. I bought way more than I could eat. Nonetheless, it was so much fun.

We decided we will just speak English and I just spoke French when I really had to. For example at the pharmacy, good luck finding Pepto Bismol. And it was so much fun practicing French in an actual Brasserie in Lyon. We went out for a very late dinner. My friend from Ireland joined us. It was a tourist oriented restaurant so they have English menu readily available. The waiters spoke English but not very good but my restaurant and food lingo-French was way better.
Imagine how comedic it was, just like the movies. I knew that there were mistranslations. Needless to say, the waiters made mistakes with our orders and the waiter's English translation was totally off. Then I spoke French with the same accent from the movie "Comme un Chef". It was hilarious...the waiter was surprised,
 " Oh,  monsieur parle Francais!" 
 "Uhuh, yup.", nodding my head. 
He apologized to us...and I said, "Faites attention, huh!" Everyone couldn't stop laughing! 
In the end, we had a great time!

Lyon is a city full of architectural and cultural treasures.

Lyon's rich history is converged in the city's several UNESCO World Heritage Sites. They are the Old Town, the Fourviere and Croix Rousse hills, the Presqu'ile and the area between Perrache and Les Terreaux.

This is the Lion at the Louis XIV Equestrian Statue at Bellecour


Célestins, Lyon Theate
 The view of Lyon from the top of the hill Fourvière,the hill that prays.
 
 Both Vieux Lyon and the slopes of Croix-Rousse are known for their narrow passageways (named traboules) that pass through buildings and link streets on either side. The first examples of traboules are thought to have been built in Lyon in the 4th century. The traboules allowed the people to get from their homes to the Saone river quickly and allowed the canuts (silk workers) on the Croix-Rousse hill to get quickly from their workshops to the textile merchants at the foot of the hill.


 
Stairs going up to Fourvière
 The Basilica of Notredame de Fourvière
 
 The tower of the Bassilica of Notredame de Fourvière

While walking through the sights, we were eating as we go. My friend said that he has never met anyone, who eats as much as me. Right...that was my L'art de vivre at that moment. I was also in a mission. I was eating my way through, from the most simple places to well known places then 3 Michelin Starred restaurant. That was the plan. Too much food to taste, very little time...
 Allons-y!


Snacks from the apartment:Mont d'Or cheese, charcuterie,
 the cultivar of this apple is called Canada, Nougat, Gewurtztraminer

 Lyonnais Salad: Mesclun, lardons, croutons, poached egg with a mustard vinaigrette
 Goat Cheese Ravioli with Lobster Sauce
 Filet of Turbot with fennel and light Curry Sauce
Duck Confit, Pork  Belly, Sausage, Lentil du Puy  
Poached Pear with Chocolate Sauce and toasted Almonds
Fresh Cheese with Honey
Nougat de Montelimar

Layered cake from Lenotre

Assorted dessert  display

Voisin
 Their specialty "La Quenelle de Lyon" is made using a carefully ground preparation of almonds, hazelnuts and sugar, all cooked together to form a delicious praline centre, which is covered with a thin layer of white chocolate.
 
Our Tasting of "La Quenelle de Lyon" and Macarons from Voisin


 Coussins de Lyon at Voisin Chocolatier

 Voisin, Depuis 1897, Maitre chocolatier

 Tartines at L'Epicerie : tartine au porc rillette,
tartine de poire au trois fromages, salades au vinaigrette aux framboise


A window display of a sculpture of recycled wine bottles at Croix-Rousse
Restaurant Fuxia at the Confluence
The Confluence retail and leisure area is a wonderful example of the new generation of shopping centres designed for maximum relaxation and well-being.

 The Confluence features a unique architectural style and a huge transparent roof
 
 Pierre Hermes has a shop at Part-Dieu
The best and the most unique macarons I have tasted in Lyon

We are what we eat


My trip to Lyon enlightened me about a profound respect for food. Everyone should be entitled to good, healthy and nutritious food. It should not be a privilege. There are so much to learn from the French. They seem to know more about where their food comes from and its quality. The French invented the AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée), which is the matrix for the EU geographical indications and traditional specialities for wines, cheeses, butters, and other agricultural products. In Canada, there is VQA  ( Vintners Quality Alliance ) which only applies to Canadian wines.


We have been advocating sustainability in Canada, but there is a great need to increase public awareness. The world's natural resources are getting depleted, hence, the topic of sustainability and frugality could not be more urgent.'We are what we eat, anything that harms the planet harms us.'


As a chef, I am my own food advocate. I will start at home then I will educate my staff then share the information on my blog.


By the way, I felt really good after eating Pierre Herme's macarons just because his macarons stand for the highest expression of artisanal skills. I am what I eat.



No comments:

Post a Comment