Michelin Stars
In
1933 André Michelin and his brother Édouard Michelin introduced the first
countrywide French restaurant listings and introduced the Michelin star system
for ranking food, later extended to the rest of the world. The guide awards one
to three stars to a small number of restaurants of outstanding quality. One
star indicates "very good cuisine in its category"; two stars
represent "excellent cuisine, worth a detour"; and a rare three stars
are awarded to restaurants offering "exceptional cuisine, worth a special
journey."
These Michelin stars led us to Roanne, located just 90 km. northwest of Lyon on the Loire river in Central France. Roanne is well known for its agriculture, textile, Côte Roannaise (AOC), and most importantly, gastronomy, mostly because of the famous Troisgros family.
Since 1957, Jean and Pierre Troisgros have played an important part in the history of French Cuisine.
The restaurant has been awarded Three Michelin stars since 1968. Pierre and his son Michel cooked together until 1993. Michel Troisgros didn't have an easy start when he took over the family's restaurant in Roanne. His father and uncle were some of France's most iconic chefs and had held three Michelin stars for years.
In terms of style, Michel Troisgros' cuisine is far
from the classical French fare of his father and uncle. His inspiration comes
from Japan, Italy and other parts of the world. He has developed dishes that are minimalist and unique with utmost craftsmanship. Michel
Troisgros managed to establish himself as one of France's very best chefs.
"My cuisine is minimalist, with no
flounces, sometimes playful and I always strive for balance in my respect for
flavours. These flavours are precise and bright as I use acidity to effect. And
I allow myself absolute freedom when it comes to seasoning".
Prelude to a Stellar Evening
The view of the country side made the hour and a half train ride to Roanne very pleasant and checking in to the Maison Troisgros was a remarkable experience of true hospitality. Maison Troisgros is unique, mythical and modern.
Le Central - Café Epicerie
In 1996, Michel Troisgros opened at Roanne the restaurant "Le Central" nicknamed “The Annex”, which featured traditional cuisine. It was located across from the train station. The Michelin Guide recommends this restaurant as "Bib Gourmand", a restaurant featuring good food for a reasonable price.
Lunch
Menu du jour
Le pain
Terrine de pot-au feu, vinaigrette aux cornichons
Mignon de porc roti, pommes confites au curry
Vin du Val de Loire 2010 "Cuvée Louis" Chateau de la Roche 8€
Tarte aux pignons de pin, glace café
28€
My second dessert was the best Tarte Tatin I have ever had.
Cafe et meringues
The best lunch for a very reasonable price. The dishes were traditional and simple but perfectly executed from the bread to the meringues.
Generous Reception
After lunch at Le Central, the Maitre D' escorted us back to the hotel. This gesture was noteworthy as I have not experienced this before. At the reception was Chef Michel Troisgros himself, he introduced himself and was very engaging. He said that he was cooking our dinner that evening and that he would do his best. I could not be more impressed with this luminous chef.
In the room, he sent iced tea (Thé au vinaigrette de framboises ), which was an original recipe from his wife Marie-Pierre along with an orange blossom brioche. The iced tea was very unusual and very good.
Une Promendade-A Walk in The Old Town
Dechelette Museum
Place de L' Hôtel de Ville
If you have more than one day in Roanne, it is worth visiting Brionnais,
Charolais, Monts de la Madeleine and Gorges de la Loire
The Illustrious Dinner
A view of the kitchen from the garden.
Tour of the kitchen
A surprised kitchen reception with Michel and César Troisgros
Sweet and sour tomatoes with caramel and sesame seeds
This is a very good example of a balanced sweet and sour flavour
that Michel is known for.
that Michel is known for.
Selection of hors d'oeuvres
Huîtres en gelée, à la betterave à peine fumée.
Gnochettis d’artichaut à la sardine, à peine fumée.
Sancerre 2011 Nuance Domaine Vincent Pinard
Brisures de chataignes at de truffe blanc
Bordeaux Château Fonréaud 2010
Plins et écrevisses
Cuisses de grenouilles poêlées, au tamarind, chou-fleur croquant
Lanquedoc « Manon » 2011 Clos Marie
Saint-Pierre comme une fleur, au curry
Condrieu 2010 « Chéry » Domaine Niéro
Saint-Jacques qui « collent à la dent »
Risotto aux truffes
Meursault 2009 Domaine Jean-François Coche-Dury
Carre d'agneau brûlé et épicé
Gevrey Chambertin 2005 «Favorites » Domaine Alain Burguet
Bons fromages, beau voyage
Laguiole, Saint Nectaire, Epoisse
Tomme de Brebis, Comte, Mont d'Or, Gaperon
Tomato compote, pumpkin compote, walnut and raisin toast
The pre dessert is Pamplemousse en gelée, pignons de pin
Champs colorés
Pétales de chocolat à l'endive
Jurançon 2009 Noblesse du temps Domaine Cauhapé
The Mignardises
Succès d'Estime
As a chef, meeting Michel Troisgros and his son César was truly inspirational. I admire their genuine hospitality and their cuisine. For what I have experienced, Michel embraces their tradition but at the same time, he reinvents his cuisine and it is evolving. I believe it is a representation of an ideal restaurant that knows its sense of place. His cuisine is unique to Maison Troisgros and to Roanne, he is promoting the "terroir" concurrently incorporating international flavours. This is very relevant because of the various cultural origins of his restaurant guests.
I have found a role model. Michel Troisgros is one of the very rare chefs who have elevated cooking as an art. Every aspect of this dining experience was exceptional. For me, it was more than just dining, it was an education. Michel was true to his philosophy all through out the dinner. His cuisine is minimalist, this is an arduous culinary philosophy yet he has been very successful. He highlights an ingredient and serves it in its best form.
One of the important things I noticed was that the succession of each course was very ingenious. To start the dinner, the server handed me the sweet and sour cherry tomato with caramel crust and sesame seeds. That was the first bite which was a burst of flavours to awaken the taste buds in preparation for the hors d'oeuvres, which was an overture to a very well orchestrated dinner.
Michel was intensifying a flavour experience in every course. This is an entire lesson on flavor markers. This is what makes a dish memorable. For example; the sesame seeds on the sweet and sour tomatoes, the passion fruit with the pumpkin, the almond oil and orange with the artichoke, the white truffle with the chestnuts, the tamarind on the frog legs, the black truffles with the risotto, the acidulated butter on the lamb, the pine nut on the grapefruit gelée, the endive with the chocolate. The dinner was great because Michel perfectly balanced all these flavours in one tasting menu.
Émotion Inattendue
This was the best dinner I have ever had. More than scrumptious food, it was unexpectedly emotional. I was blown away. The wine pairing was very good,in fact, I was particularly surprised with the pairing of Bordeaux Château Fonréaud 2010 and the chestnuts with white truffles. It was indescribable. I was very happy to eat the frog legs, it was a very French dish but it brought me back to my childhood because it had a Southeast Asian flavored sauce. It was very familiar because of the tamarind. The black truffle risotto was the best risotto I have ever had, I took my time eating it because I was studying why it was so. The lamb also was the best I have ever had. The cheeseboard was very impressive.The desserts were seductive and the mignardises were very creative and skillfully prepared. I have never been "wowed" by an entire menu before. Furthermore, the service was very professional and very pleasant.
It truly was a very memorable dinner. The Michelin Guide was right that the Maison Troisgros has exceptional cuisine and worth a special journey. Michel Troisgros is brilliant!
